It may come as a surprise to encounter a gastronomic virtuoso from a Michelin star caliber establishment on a remote isle amid the vast Atlantic. Yet, this is the reality at À TERRA at the Octant Hotel in Ponta Delgada, positioned on the isle of São Miguel.
Ponta Delgada on São Miguel is a locale rich in history featuring a striking 18th-century city gate, an array of convents, churches, and stately homes. As the Azores’ capital, it serves as the starting point to an array of natural wonders including volcanic calderas, emerald-hued crater lakes, steaming fumaroles, and the delights of whale and dolphin sightings. Gently heated thermal waters invite relaxation, while the coastal road unveils vistas of stark volcanic formations. The regional specialty, cozido das Furnas, a savory blend of meats and vegetables, is uniquely prepared over five hours in the earth’s warmth at the geothermal area of Furnas.
Sete Cidades, São Miguel, Azores
What coaxed this culinary artist to an archipelago nearly a thousand miles from the coast of mainland Portugal? Chef Leite’s odyssey spanned the globe before arriving here.
Born in the diminutive coastal city of Aveiro, near Porto, Portugal, Chef Leite fondly recalls his childhood surrounded by sweeping sandy shores and salinated lagoons. Aveiro, often referred to as the Venice of Portugal, enchanted him with its network of canals at the city center.
He reminisces about familial culinary influences, “Growing up in a quintessential Portuguese home, I was immersed in the intense affection for our local gastronomy and the distinctive flavors of the north. Our family gatherings, particularly on sacred occasions, were marked by the bounty of the sea, courtesy of my grandfather’s ventures in the Ria de Aveiro. Roasted lamb was a staple, a nod to my father’s roots in the Douro Valley. Our table was never without three revered staples — the beloved Bacalhau, or Portuguese salted cod; a succulent roasted suckling pig (my personal favorite!); and the irresistible Ovos moles, a creamy egg-yolk confection that tempts continuance in indulgence.”
Although his epiphany to pursue a culinary path materialized somewhat belatedly, Chef Leite’s passion for gastronomy has been a lifelong companion. “Enrolling in a school dedicated to Hospitality and Culinary arts was instinctive. My professional initiation unfolded at The Yeatman, an esteemed gastronomic and hotel institution in Portugal boasting 1 Michelin star at the time, presently distinguished with 2.”
Harnessing the vigor of youth, he yearned for broader horizons. “I embarked on a six-day journey in my antiquated vehicle, aspiring to reach the Netherlands where I broadened my culinary repertoire for a year and a half.”</.realised>
“Subsequently, an extraordinary chance materialized when I joined forces with Chef Joachim Koerper, amongst the most venerated culinary masters in both Portugal and Spain.” Cidade Maravilhosa, as Rio de Janeiro is known, forever altered his destiny: “Within a single year, I encountered my future spouse, and our shared culinary endeavor received the prestigious Michelin star accolade. The enchantment of Cidade Maravilhosa extends beyond accolades; it is the locale where my life partner and I crossed paths.”
He further elaborates, “Brazil evokes a stirring resonance for the Portuguese, be it the melodious lilt of the accent, the vivacity, the rhythm of music, and notably, the splendor of Rio de Janeiro — a place of remarkable beauty deserving of its moniker. My gratitude for the treasured opportunities and my current residency in yet another magnificent location is boundless.”
Continuing, he shares, “Our concerted efforts in Rio revolved around one singular objective: to be bestowed with Michelin recognition. This goal was actualized within a remarkable span, and concurrently, we garnered acclaim as one of Brazil’s elite dining establishments.”
What then prompted such a lauded chef, amidst a prosperous career and alluring environment, to relocate to such an isolated locale? Chef Leite disclosed that an invitation post-return to Portugal and tenure in Porto led to his transfer to the Azores’ majesty. “These tranquil islands, nestled in the mid-Atlantic, present a sanctuary not merely for vacationers but as a habitat. I embraced the role of Executive Chef at Octant Ponta Delgada Hotel in 2021, embarking on an extraordinary adventure thus far.”
The region’s temperate maritime climate and the abundance of pristine products are an immense attraction. He enthuses, “For mainland Portuguese like myself, the Azores unveil endless marvels. Absence of biting winters or sweltering summers ensures a mild climate year-round. Lush greenery and azure expanses dominate the landscape. Seafood and other oceanic entities of unparalleled quality abound, and significant proportions of Portugal’s beef and dairy derive from here. Complemented by exotic fruits and unusual vegetables such as pineapple, guava, cherry guava, yam, and more. This offer was one I could not turn down, and thus, I made the move!”
At Ponta Delgada, our mantra revolves around liberty, camaraderie, and infusing joy through delectable cuisine, heart, and the art of narration. Renowned within Portugal’s gastronomic landscape and echoed by media outlets and travel compendiums, our establishment’s culinary prowess is undeniable.
Inquiring about the cornerstone of his gastronomic philosophy and distinctive touch, Chef Leite opines, “Oft-maligned sea salt remains my esteemed companion in the kitchen — an exquisite natural boon, adeptly coupled with fresh ingredients and familial recipes, unlocks the essence of sublime cuisine. Although an exhaustive list might follow, let it suffice to say, salt and ardor distinguish my creations. Treating every guest as one would treat dear family — spouse, mother, or father — is the guiding principle of our table.”
Chef Leite graciously consents to divulge one of his culinary secrets with our audience.
Sopa de Queijo – A soup emblematic of Octant Ponta Delgada, crafted for the aficionado of Azorean cheese. In Portugal and the Azores, soup is a customary precursor to all main repasts. Some regions consider a robust soup the sole meal, complete with pork, beef, and beans, or simple vegetable consommés.
Cheese Soup from Ilha, serves 4:
- 100g diced white onion
- 100g diced leeks (white only)
- 50ml virgin olive oil
- 400g potatoes
- 200g São Miguel cheese, cut into chunks
- 50g São Miguel cheese, finely grated
- 80g heavy cream
To create cheese crisps: Lay the grated cheese onto parchment paper and heat in a microwave on high for 60 to 90 seconds, until it turns golden and crisp. Reserve these to add a crunch to your soup later!
Sauté the onion and leek in olive oil until they reach a golden hue.
Add cubed potatoes and let them simmer.
Submerge all vegetables with water or a mild chicken stock and maintain on a medium flame for 30-40 min until tender.
Utilize either a handheld mixer or a standard blender to achieve a smooth puree. Season with a pinch of salt and incorporate the cream.
Serve piping hot in a deep dish, previously adorned with a poached egg and lightly fried zucchini or mushrooms.
Image Source: TTstudio / Shutterstock
