Augustina Hobbs, the offspring of renowned vintner Paul Hobbs, recently orchestrated a remarkable wine dinner inside the exclusive wine chamber at The Royce. This Michelin plate awarded upscale steakhouse is located within the luxurious Langham Huntington, Pasadena.
While savoring Chef de Cuisine Jorge Degaldo’s delectable amuse bouche, servers uncorked bottles of 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling for a tasting complement. Carefully harvested and selected in the vineyard from estate-grown grapes in Seneca Lake, NY, this wine is not overly sweet and presents a wonderfully delightful texture. Its charming floral bouquet is succeeded by layers of Asian pear, vibrant citrus, and a pleasing earthiness.
The delightful and articulate Augustina, a Cornell University alumna, currently serves as a Sales Consultant for Signature Division SGWS. She reminisced about her childhood experiences growing up as the daughter of a winemaker. ‘I spent my summers in Napa Valley, Sonoma, New York, and Argentina. My most cherished memories are of walking through the vineyards with my father.’
Augustina’s father named this distinguished Riesling wine Hillick & Hobbs, as a tribute to his parents, her grandparents. ‘Their surnames are printed on the label. They met while studying at Cornell University, near Seneca Lake.’
Paul Hobbs cultivated grapevines at their family estate to create this wine.
As one enjoys this Riesling, it’s evident that it stands toe-to-toe with any European Riesling, owing to Hobbs’ contemporary viticulture practices in the Finger Lakes. It undergoes aging and fermentation in 100% stainless steel to ensure a light wine with lively acidity and aromatic flavor.
This wine also paired flawlessly with the first course of thinly sliced seared tuna atop crisp Granny Smith apple slices. It is accented with bee pollen crumble and a Key Lime and peach conserve for an added touch of sweetness and color to the presentation.
‘My father was raised on a farm and attended Notre Dame with aspirations of becoming a physician. After earning a degree in Chemistry, it was my grandfather who persuaded my dad to leave medical school and attend UC Davis to become a vintner,” she disclosed.
During his education, her father developed a passion for Riesling wines, particularly from Germany, which he considers to be his foundational love. He graduated with a Master’s degree in Viticulture and Enology.
Influenced by his rural upbringing, he acquired the discipline essential for farming by planting, gathering crops, and vending at farmers markets each morning before school. “Everything revolves around the vineyard first; winemaking comes second for my father,” Augustina shared.
Bottles of 2021 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley region were poured as the second course was presented. “The grapes for this wine were harvested during the cool evening hours,” remarked Augustina. “This smooth slightly oaky Chardonnay has no overwhelming oak characteristics.”
Experiencing a sip of this predominantly estate-owned white wine, it complemented Chef Jorge’s green and white asparagus spheres perfectly. This dish dazzled with hints of Meyer Lemon, marinated Asian pears, a mache salad, and delightful crunchy dehydrated Mandarin orange slices.
“My dad’s thesis focused on oak extracts, analyzing the distinctions between French Oak and California,” said Augustina. When the legendary vintner Robert Mondavi reviewed this thesis, it captured his interest, and Paul Hobbs commenced his winemaking journey in Napa Valley working alongside Mondavi.
For his burgeoning career, Mondavi personally selected Hobbs for the inaugural Opus One team. After establishing Opus One, Paul took on a winemaking role at Simi Winery before providing consultation for several prestigious estates—including Napa Valley’s Peter Michael and Lewis Cellars—before seizing the chance to consult for Argentina’s Bodegas Catena.
‘His interpreter later became my mother,’ stated Augustina. “During his time in Argentina, my father was among the first to produce Malbec using French barrels.’
She recounted how a wine writer from the Seattle Times was invited to Argentina to sample her father’s Malbec. A few days later, the Seattle Times featured an article titled ‘Don’t Cry For Me Argentina,’ introducing Malbec to the American audience.
Paul has refined his winemaking skills focusing on enhancing the health and longevity of the vineyards he owns and collaborates with. He discovered that by nurturing grapevines with care, they yield the most intricate wines. These experiences fueled Paul’s dedication to crafting single-vineyard wines that display the distinctive terroir of California and other intriguing vineyard locations globally. “We have 8 wineries across four continents,” noted Augustina.
In 1991, he reached out to viticultural giants in Napa and Sonoma, Larry Hyde and Richard Dinner, to source and procure five tons of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. In time, those grapes became the inaugural releases for Paul Hobbs Winery.
‘His namesake wines were created with indigenous yeast, without filtration, which was standard practice during the 1980s and early 1990s,’ said Augustina. ‘To this day, my father continues to work with both vineyards in pursuit of crafting some of California’s finest wines.’
Augustina discussed how her father is a perfectionist. “My father’s relentless pursuit of detail and excellence in winemaking encompasses his meticulous care for vines and winemaking facilities. His approach in the vineyard involves minimal intervention, and his cellars produce world-class, site-specific wines,” she articulated.
When the third course of delicately sliced New York carpaccio was served, Chef Jorge elaborated on the dish presented at each table setting. “The cherry puree atop the plate has been fermenting for over a year,” Chef Jorge explained. I observed that this process imparts an exceptionally dark cherry mellow flavor.
This course was paired with a glass of 2022 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir from grapes harvested from the West Sonoma Coast. It complemented the raw beef slices along with flavorful pickled hon-shimeji mushrooms and curly purple mustard frills beautifully.
The ruby red Pinot Noir is visually striking, while the aroma tantalizes one’s palate. With each sip, I relished the bright ripe cherry flavors and hints of red berries. A touch of salinity, supported by fine tannins, culminates in a pure fruit finish.
Augustina was eager for us to enjoy two different Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignons. The first was a 2020 from Cabernet grapes cultivated in the emerging Coombsville area of Napa Valley. This captivating vintage from the Nathan Coombs Estate reveals a deep garnet hue. The rich bouquet of blackberry aroma unfolds with layers of savory sage and subtle tobacco leaf notes.
This wine paired exquisitely with Chef Jorge’s fourth course, a petit filet cooked to perfection with a red center. This dish was accompanied by cigar-smoked marble potatoes, which imparted an aromatic tobacco essence with each bite. On top of the tender beef rested a slightly sweet black currant sauce with crispy leeks, rounding out the course. While this dish complemented the first Cabernet Sauvignon well, I particularly enjoyed the second Cabernet Sauvignon.
This was a luscious 2011 vintage from the Beckstoffer Las Piedras area of Napa. This refined, velvety red wine is smooth with intricate layers of black cherry and red berry flavors. A whisper of fresh mint, spices, and rose petals is intertwined with a touch of minerality. It finishes with a silky dark chocolate and black tea essence.
Paul Hobbs continues to enlarge his vineyard expansion, currently cultivating Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In California, these vineyards span premium terroirs in the Russian River Valley, West Sonoma Coast, and Napa Valley, including estate-owned sites and vineyards tended by Paul’s long-term partner growers.
Experience some of his estate wines that produce among his most treasured, vibrant, balanced, and pure tasting wines for a delightful dining experience.
Image Source: Roycela.com