Unearthing a new neighborhood eatery is a delightful experience, particularly when it serves some of the finest Portuguese cuisine in London and is managed by Simon Mullins, co-founder of the Salt Yard collection of restaurants, alongside his Portuguese-born spouse Isabel Almeida da Silva. Volta do Mar holds a prestigious location on luxurious Draycott Avenue: directly across from KX (one of London’s most elite – and pricey – gyms) and just a few doors away from the local favorite, Daphne’s. The restaurant moved here last year from its former location in Theatreland, making Covent Garden’s loss significantly beneficial for Chelsea.
In reference to the navigational prowess of the Portuguese, Volta do Mar (which translates as ‘around the sea’) is inspired by a 15th-century method mastered by Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discovery, utilizing wind currents at sea. It’s a fitting title: this is an establishment that moves beyond the traditional staples of bacalhau and caldo verde, instead embracing Portugal’s historic trade currents with a menu enriched with pan-African, Brazilian, and South Indian elements. The restaurant menu genuinely reflects the melting pot of influences present in Portuguese gastronomy. As Volta do Mar states on its mission statement on their website, they are ‘honoring the diversity of Portuguese cuisine and its connection with South America, Africa & Asia.’ The menu features dishes ranging from chickpeas and aubergine Goan curry to Iberico pork bafassa.
Mullins is an enthusiastic wine connoisseur, and he enthusiastically presents to me and my friend J the extensive wine selection, which has received numerous accolades, including the World of Fine Wine Magazine Annual Awards ‘World’s Best Wine Lists’, ‘Best Micro List Europe’ (Under 100 wines), and is presently a finalist for ‘Best Microlist Global’, with the award ceremony scheduled for September 16th.
The meal commenced for me with mackerel and shimeji mushrooms, a deliciously rich umami dish. I then moved on to sweet potato with black beans, which was outstanding. For dessert, I enjoyed grilled peach, perfectly balanced by a generous portion of rich, creamy vanilla sauce.
Meanwhile, J described her red, yellow and candy beetroot salad with goat cheese and hazelnuts, alongside Brazilian fish and tiger prawn stew, as ‘incredibly scrumptious indeed’.
The cuisine here tastes as though it is from the finest Pousada, a Porto wine establishment, or a fresh seafood bar in the Algarve. I am genuinely impressed and will undoubtedly return for more, especially as it is a unique, cozy venue with an excellent wine selection and reasonable pricing, especially for Chelsea, and best of all, it’s just around the corner.
Image Source: VoltaDoMar.co.uk
