If you step into the lift at the 4-star Views BaÃa hotel in Funchal, Madeira’s capital, and ascend to the rooftop, you’ll find yourself at Desarma, one of the city’s recent high-end restaurants that debuted just last year.
Upon the elevator doors opening, you’re greeted by a spacious area housing a large open kitchen where a team of chefs in white coats and caramel-colored aprons are diligently working, almost like scientists in a lab concocting innovative flavors. Through the floor-to-ceiling windows, you can admire the twinkling lights of Funchal in the dark night.
The restaurant, envisioned by Atelier Nini Andrade Silva, is well-illuminated to create a relaxed and intimate ambience, with lighting fixtures set at just the right brightness level.
The tables in the room vary in size, some ideal for couples in this romantic setting. Adjacent to us, there was a larger table accommodating six individuals who were on the island for a culinary project with RTE, Ireland’s national television company.
The exotic essence of Madeira is mirrored in a large decorative banana palm leaf and two impressive wooden sculptures resembling thick tree trunks.
We were swiftly escorted to our table by the Madeira-native host Alexandre Nuno Fernandes Franco, and his colleague, Sergio Marques, a sommelier from Venezuela, promptly commenced elaborating on the extensive wine selection of the house. With just five minutes passed since exiting the elevator, we were off to a splendid beginning with glasses of refreshing Mailly Grand Cru champagne crafted solely from Pinot Noir grapes.
The culinary ideology of the local head chef, Octávio Freitas, is embodied in the restaurant’s name – a ‘battle of senses fought in the mouth,’ commencing with an ‘encounter,’ proceeding with an ‘attack,’ and culminating in ‘surrender.’ In essence, be prepared to be amazed.
Together with his team, Octávio has curated a harmonious land and sea menu that pays tribute to the island’s iconic ingredients. To relish the experience fully, we chose the tasting menu with wine pairings rather than the à la carte option, combining molecular gastronomy and presentation to evoke Madeira’s legacy and scenery.
Our initial course, served in a black ceramic bowl resembling intricately carved ancient pottery, was a velvety fusion of sweet potatoes, truffles, and dashi, topped with hay-like sweet potato flakes.
Followed by Espetada de atum, or spit-grilled tuna presented on a flat bronze plate with bay leaf and roasted garlic slow-cooked over hot coals. The texture of the tuna resembled tartare, melting effortlessly in our mouths. Subsequently, a crumbly, cookie-like blend of dry limpets with aged beef tartare and mushroom gel, shaped akin to a mini-burger.
For seafood enthusiasts, a burst of intense flavors emanates from a bonbon-like capsule of roe of black scabbard with rye crumb and bottarga shavings. Grilled trout from Seixal, delicately combined with eel pudding and smoked seaweed broth, also captivates with its exquisite taste. Additionally, red scarlet shrimp with passion fruit jelly and apricot emulsion offer a unique culinary experience.
Given that Funchal derived its name from the Portuguese word for fennel, which was abundant on the island during its discovery, it was no surprise when this anise-like herb appeared as a refreshing accompaniment to parrot fish.
Chef Octávio’s admiration for locally grown Madeiran produce (he cultivates organic vegetables and crafts his wine) persisted in my dining partner’s dessert option – reconstructed Madeira cake, a lightweight choux pastry filled with island cane honey custard, embellished with dried fruits, nuts, and cacao nibbles atop. My dessert featured a medley of pineapple and banana slices in cane honey, tantalizingly spiced with a touch of pepper sauce.
The wine pairings throughout the evening, expertly selected by sommelier Joao Barbosa, perfectly complemented every dish. Particularly noteworthy was the Madeiran Barbeito – produced from tinta negra grapes, exhibiting a dark hue with aromatic notes of toffee, coffee, molasses, chocolate, and jam, and possessing a full-bodied and velvety texture.
With Madeira’s delightful climate for most of the year, Disarma guests have the option to dine al fresco on a charming terrace, ideal for mild island evenings. Additionally, twelve counter seats around the open kitchen provide a Chef’s Table experience.
Image Source: Booking.com
