It’s quite astounding to consider that only twelve years have passed since the inaugural launch of Dishoom. In just a little over a decade, this eatery brand has garnered acclaim for its delightful, reasonably priced Indian dishes, served in exquisitely atmospheric locales with consistently cordial and hospitable service – a highly successful recipe. The trio of visionaries (Shamil Thakrar, along with his cousin Kavi and co-founders Adarsh and Amar Radia), all with backgrounds in finance, introduced London to the original Dishoom in the vibrant heart of Covent Garden back in 2010. The remarkable proliferation of the restaurant across London and the broader UK stands as a testament to its unparalleled success. Dishoom now spans cities like Edinburgh, Manchester, and Birmingham, with six venues across the bustling capital, including the most recent addition in Canary Wharf unveiled just last month.
Dishoom was conceived with the intention to shun the worn-out stereotypes that had previously colored Britain’s connection with India. The founders were eager to weave a fresh narrative, leading to the birth of Dishoom as an homage to the traditional Irani cafés of historic Bombay, established by Iranian migrants in the early 1900s. As ‘outsiders’ in Bombay, these café proprietors embraced all, embodying an all-encompassing, inclusive, and egalitarian ethos that resonated with the trio and that they sought to embody.
Central to this overarching concept are the three Cs: ‘creativity, complexity, and culture’. This trifecta has undeniably earned Dishoom its loyal following. Creativity infuses every outpost of the restaurant. The meticulous attention to detail in the interiors, crafted by the likes of Afroditi Krassa and Russell Sage, elevates them closer to film set quality than mere dining spaces. Whether it’s the curated knick-knacks adorning the Dishoom Shoreditch veranda or the iconic clock at Dishoom Covent Garden reminiscent of Mumbai’s Victoria Station, every element is meticulously considered. What distinguishes Dishoom from the fate of many other rapid-expanding restaurant chains is the distinct identity of each venue; while paying homage to the Irani cafés, each location also narrates its unique story subtly influenced by its neighborhood’s culture, architectural setting, or a particular era. Every Dishoom, although unmistakeably linked by a common thread, possesses its individual charm. This is vividly apparent in the Canary Wharf site with its authentically ’70s-inspired interior design.
In terms of ‘complexity’, the team consciously chose not to streamline their menu or take shortcuts. Instead, they opted to ‘unlearn’ certain business practices and embrace idiosyncrasies and intricacies. Each restaurant boasts its own menu ‘specials’ distinguishing it, yet the core menu offerings remain consistent. Noteworthy among the offerings at Canary Wharf is the succulent Malai lobster, sourced fresh daily from Billingsgate Market.
Culturally, Dishoom stands out for its holistic and charitable approach. For instance, with every meal served at Dishoom, they donate a school lunch to underprivileged children in India and the UK.
The Canary Wharf outpost naturally showcases Dishoom’s meticulously curated menu of Bombay comfort foods and award-winning beverages, available from breakfast until late hours. I had the pleasure of visiting with my spouse one crisp Friday evening in early December. Despite the restaurant’s soft launch just a fortnight prior to our visit, the ambiance was electrifying. The space, with its exposed kitchen, fragrant incense, and bustling team of youthful servers, exuded a warm, vibrant atmosphere.
We were graciously seated on a plush banquette and indulged in the exquisite mango and fennel seed lassis: a delightful blend of sweetness and tartness. The subsequent dishes were both fulfilling and enticing, from the superb okra fries with their grainy, crispy coating to the decadently delicious vada pau – Bombay’s interpretation of a chip butty, featuring spiced potato morsels in a bun. The highlights were unquestionably the sumptuous house black daal – hearty, velvety lentils, and the bhel – a crispy Bombay Mix treat adorned with pomegranate seeds. The chole puri (chickpeas in spiced black tea) offered a subtle yet addictive flavor. Equally irresistible was the molten chocolate pudding paired with Kashmiri chili ice cream. The lusciousness combined with the chili-infused kick was utterly delightful. I highly recommend dipping a pistachio kulfi in a fragrant mug of house chai.
The delectable cuisine, alongside the evocative ambiance and stellar service, set Dishoom apart from other Indian eateries. Dishoom Canary Wharf is no exception, adding a delightful touch to the dining scene.
Image Source: Sven Hansche / Shutterstock
